 |
Safe Harbor Animal Hospital
Richelle Smith, DVM
4547 Cascade Road SE
Grand Rapids, MI 49546
(616) 942-8147
Email Safe Harbor
| |
| 
Safe Harbor Animal Hospital
Your Pet's Happiness is our Priority!
Shouldn't your pet ENJOY going to the vet? We agree! Stop in for a tour to see what a difference our staff and doctor will make. |
 | Welcome to Our Site |  |
 Processing ....
|
|
Articles:
Dog Park Etiquette - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company September 9, 2008
Introducing Pets and Babies - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company October 9, 2008
Traveling With Your Pet - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company November 13, 2008
Holiday Hazards - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company December 11, 2008
Finding a Good Home for Your Pet - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company January 8, 2009
Pet Dental Care - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company February 12, 2009
Threatening Behavior in Dogs - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company March 10, 2009
Know Your Breed - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company May 14, 2009
Weight Management in Pets - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company June 11, 2009
Lost Pets - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company July 9, 2009
New Puppy 101 - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company July 29, 2009
Separation Anxiety - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company September 17, 2009
Halloween Safety - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company October, 2009
Bringing a Pet Home for the Holidays - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company December, 2009
The Dangers of Online Pharmacies - WZZM 13 Take Five and Company January, 2010
Dog Park Etiquette
See www.doggonesafe.com and click on "Dog Communication Information You Should Know" for great tips on reading dog body language.
See www.safehaborvet.com for information on lots of topics and our adoptable pets.
Proper Canine Manners for Dogs at the Dog Park
For a well-behaved dog with a knowledgeable owner, a dog park can be a little bit of heaven on earth. Dog parks provide something many of us don‟t have at home. A large fenced area for our pets to romp and play in and access to a big, huge puppy party! After a few hours at the park, your pooch will be ready for a nap. Remember, a tired dog is a happy dog which usually translates into a happy owner!
When discussing dog parks, it's important to remember that there are two types available. The first is the privately owned, typically pay to play, type of park. In general, these parks are usually larger, have more amenities available and have much more stringent rules concerning aggressive dogs and vaccination/parasite check requirements.
The typically free "public" dog park can also be enjoyable, but be aware, these parks are based on an "honor system" and may have little to no monitoring.
In either park, it's important to find groups with dogs who really enjoy romping together. Just like kids, not all pups will get along well together.
It‟s important to make absolutely certain your pet is completely up to date on all vaccinations by contacting your veterinarian prior to visiting a dog park.
1. Is the dog park right for you and your dog?
Are YOU right for the park?: Do you have good, basic knowledge of dog behavior and body language. Do you know how to tell whether a pup is playing or being aggressive? Do you have good, verbal control over your pet? Your pup should at least know the commands "Leave it" and "Come" before taking him to a dog park. Are you willing to play by the rules (i.e. pick up after your pet, leave the park if your pet is causing trouble, pay for any damages caused by your pet. etc.).
Is your DOG right for the park?: Does she enjoy playing with other dogs? Does she play well with others without becoming aggressive? Will she listen to you even if she's distracted with play?
Is the PARK right for your dog? The park should require proof of up to date distemper/parvo, bordetella and rabies vaccinations and negative fecal examinations. Dogs known to have had aggression issues should not be allowed inside the park. Some parks have separate play areas for smaller or timid dogs which may be an important consideration for you.
2. If your dog is aggressive, what should you do?
If you know your dog has aggressive tendencies toward other dogs. Please, use common sense and keep him at home. Avoiding a potentially dangerous fight is much better than trying to break it up.
Just like kids on a playground, dogs in a dog park will be prone to scuffles. The vast majority of these will be minor, however, it is up to us to be able to assess whether a scuffle is going to escalate into a full blown fight. If the scuffle appears to be all bark and no bite, count to "one three thousand". Usually by that time, a simple scuffle will have ended. If either dog actually has a hold of the other, you will need to break things up and move to a different section of the park or end the session for the day. Avoid dogs with tense or aggressive body language. If the dogs continue to scuffle, institute a 3-5 minute "time out" to allow both parties to calm down. Do not yell at dogs that are having a minor disagreement as this can
cause the situation to escalate. Telling your dog "No" or "come" if you feel he will listen, may be productive. Obviously, if your pet shows continued aggression, he should not be taken to the dog park and you should seek professional advice.
If you need to break up an actual dog fight, do so with extreme caution as even the best behaved pup may bite their owner accidentally in the heat of the moment. No matter how great your relationship is with your pet, you CAN be bitten as your pet is in survival mode.
Do not grab the dogs by their collars, instead grab the hind feet of each dog, lift upward, walk backward and in a large circle with the dog‟s hind end in the air. This sounds ridiculous, but is the safest way to break up a dog fight if the dogs don„t already have leashes on them to use. This only works if you have two people available. Don‟t let go of the dogs until you have them in separate areas. When your dog has settled down, check closely for injuries. Take your pet to the veterinarian immediately if any wounds are noted.
3. First Time Dog Owners: What to expect.
If you‟ve never been to a dog park before, it‟s a really good idea to visit a couple of times without your dog to get an idea of what to expect. Watch the dogs playing and observe their body language. Also, watch the owners, do they tend to overreact if their dogs are in a minor scuffle or, at the opposite end of the spectrum, do they completely ignore their aggressive dog who is causing fights? If the situation seems good, by all means bring your pup the next time. If something doesn‟t seem right, listen to your gut feeling and leave Fido at home. Ask your veterinarian and local positive reinforcement dog trainer what parks they recommend.
Get to know the owners of the dogs present. Ask them questions about their pet‟s backgrounds. You‟ll likely make some great new human, as well as canine, friends.
Expect that you‟ll meet both people and pets that you‟ll both like and dislike. Some parks have scheduled times for certain groups of people or pets to meet. Often, the park participants will arrange to meet at specific times so their compatible pets can play together.
Rules are typically posted at the front gate(s) of the park. Expect to follow them. Don‟t bring treats or chewies into the park. These can cause possessive aggression.
A word of caution. Because there are large numbers of big dogs running around at high rates of speed, the dog park is no place for small children. The potential for accidental injury is too great.
4. Little dogs vs Big dogs:
If your little guy typically has no trouble holding his own with a larger dog friend, by all means, give the "big dog" side of the park a try. Be ready to remove your dog though if he‟s having trouble getting knocked around by the pack. Most parks either have scheduled "little dog" times or a separate area for the wee ones.
5. Males vs. females
Generally speaking, most of the time gender is not an issue as long as the pets present have been altered. Most gender related issues revolve around un-neutered males or un-spayed females. Same sex aggression being the most common problem. 70% of all dog bites are caused by un-neutered males. Use caution if you notice someone bring an intact male or female dog into the park. Particularly if the female is in heat or if the male is exhibiting any aggressive body language.
See www.doggonesafe.com for information on reading dog body language.
See www.safehaborvet.com for information on lots of topics and our adoptable pets.
Back to top
Introducing Pets and Babies
1. Remember that your puppy or kitty was your first "baby". He or she is used to receiving all of your attention and, if not properly prepared, may feel a bit bent out of shape when the new arrival comes along. Thankfully, there are several ways you can help your furry friend cope with this major change. Think along the lines of preparing your first child for the birth of your second child.
2. Several months before you are due: Take one or two 6-8 week positive reinforcement based obedience classes. Things like jumping, pawing, and not listening to commands may seem benign now, but they can be annoying and potentially dangerous around an infant. The Canine Good Citizen Test is a great goal for families expecting their first little one. If your dog has ever bitten, snapped or growled for any reason at any person it is best to start seeking the advice of a professional well before the newborn arrives in order to avoid any potentially harmful situations.
See your veterinarian to be sure your pet is up to date on their health exam, vaccinations and parasite checks.
3. Have friends with infants and small children visit and watch how your dog reacts. If she seems afraid, don't force any interaction, let her approach at her own pace. Learn how to read her body language. Consult a positive reinforcement trainer/behaviorist if her anxiety appears excessive. Never leave dogs and children unsupervised.
4. Strive to make positive associations between the baby and your dog or cat well before the actual arrival.
a. Carry a blanket-wrapped doll around the house. Ask your dog to "Sit", then allow your dog to sniff. Praise for all positive interactions. Take the doll with you in a stroller on walks to help your dog get used to the equipment.
b. Use baby lotions and soaps to perfume the air with new scents.
c. Allow your pets to visit the nursery with you. If you would like your pet to remain outside the nursery, install a pet gate. Place double sided sticky tape on objects you do not want kitty jumping up on.
d. Turn on the infant swing, wind up music boxes, play CD's resonating with the cries of newborns (www.preparingfido.com), and set up the crib. All help desensitize your pet to new sights and sounds.
e. Try to include your pet in baby-preparation activities. Practice obedience training at that time.
f. Teach your pet to wait quietly by your side until you invite her onto your lap.
5. After the baby arrives:
a. If you are spending more than one day in the hospital, make sure your pet has somewhere safe and comfortable to stay with someone he or she is familiar with during your absence.
b. Bring a baby blanket home the day before the little one comes home. Allow your pet to sniff the blanket and give lots of positive reinforcement.
c. When you come home, take time to greet your pet quietly. Have your spouse or another person bring the new baby into the house.
d. Try to include your pet in baby-care whenever possible.
e. Always watch for positive and quiet/calm behavior and reward/reinforce that rather than always focusing on negative behavior. Challenge yourself to reward calm behavior a minimum of three times each day.
f. Think of ways you can spend quality time with your dog after the baby arrives. If you have done your homework, you now have a calm, well-behaved companion. Teach him some new tricks such as "Fetch me a new diaper". Your goal is to help your pet enjoy his relationship with the new baby as much as possible.
Back to top
Traveling With Your Pets
Does the thought of spending an hour trying to drive while Fluffy's yowling and Fido's jumping around like a maniac make you want to cancel your travel plans altogether? If so, read on. There are several things you can do to make that trip to Grandma's home for the holidays more pleasant.
1. Desensitize, Desensitize, Desensitize. Then desensitize some more. Pets often fear the unknown. It's up to us to make traveling a familiar part of their lives. Go slowly. Don't progress to the next step until your pet is comfortable with the previous one. The more often your pet is exposed to your vehicle, the calmer he will be.
Step 1: Find a suitably sized, secure, pet carrier, booster seat or pet seat belt. The carrier should not be so small that your pet is uncomfortable. Invest in high quality products.
Step 2: Leave your pet's carrier open during the day with a soft bed inside. Place near food and water in a quiet location. Every day, throw a small treat into the back of the carrier (start at the front and gradually move to the back if your pet won't go into the back of the carrier initially). This way, your pet starts to associate good things with the carrier and will become relaxed around it.
Step 3: Put your pet in their carrier or seatbelt, give them a few treats, then let them out.
Step 4: Obedience training for dogs. The more you train your dog, the more he or she will listen to you in general. Keep trying, keep training, keep getting help until you're seeing results. Nothing builds a stronger bond between you and your dog like lots of good, positive reinforcement obedience training.
Step 4: Sit in the car with your pet (always in their carrier or seat belt) for a few minutes each day. Then, take your pet back inside and give them a relaxing "massage". You can try using the scent of lavender or a DAP collar for dogs or feliway spray for cats. Lavender, DAP and Feliway (the latter two available at pet stores or through your veterinarian) all have a calming effect on many pets.
Once your pet seems comfortable with this step, progress to step 5. You can also try giving your pet a relaxing rub before the car session.
Step 5: Step 4 + turn the car on daily.
Step 6: Go for a short drive around the block daily.
Step 7: Alternate between short and slightly longer drives. At this point, your pet is likely used to this part of their daily routine and no longer gets upset when in the car.
Notes: Approach all steps in a calm, assertive manner. The first few days (or even 1-2 weeks) may be tough, but if you're relaxed and following the rules, your pet will come around.
If your pet is not improving, has trouble with motion sickness or she seems absolutely panic stricken, please see your veterinarian. There are medications available that can help cure nausea/motion sickness and panic in pets. Pets with these disorders may not get better with behavior therapy alone. They need to have the underlying, physical cause for their distress addressed.
Richelle Smith, DVM Safe Harbor Animal Hospital
Back to top
Holiday Dangers
Be careful how you deck your halls! The holiday season is generally a time of family togetherness in which even our pets participate. One’s thoughts generally are far from thoughts of injury; however, one must be aware of some important seasonal hazards in order to insure a happy holiday season.
RIBBONS & TINSEL
These are of special interest to playful cats or dogs who see these materials as toys (or prey) to be chased, pounced upon, chewed or swallowed. These strings or “linear foreign bodies” can catch in the GI tract, leading to bunching of intestine as the body tries in vain to move the string or ribbon through. This is a life-threatening condition requiring surgery for correction. Do not allow animals to play with string.
ELECTRIC LIGHT CORDS
These are also tempting to cats who like to play with string as well as to puppies who are teething and interested in chewing. If a pet bites through an electrical cord, it could result in a severe burn to the tongue which causes the pet’s lung to fill with fluid, causing respiratory distress. This is also an emergency requiring immediate veterinary attention.
CHOCOLATE
Many people do not realize that chocolate can be a poison. Unsweetened baking chocolate and dark chocolate carry a much higher dose of the toxin “theobromine” than milk chocolate, but even normal milk chocolate can be dangerous; a small dog sharing candy can wind up in big trouble. Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning include hyperexcitability, nervousness, vomiting, and diarrhea and death. Call your veterinarian immediately if you pet ingests chocolate.
POINSETTIA
Consuming this festive-looking plant can be irritating to the mouth and stomach of the dog or cat that chews on or eats it. Contrary to popular belief, poinsettia is not otherwise specifically toxic.
MISTLETOE
The fact that there are several types of mistletoe makes it difficult to predict the clinical signs of poisoning. Some mistletoes produce only stomach upset while others may lead to liver failure or seizuring. Consider mistletoe to be a hazardous substance and keep it inaccessible to pets and children.
LILLIES
Lillies from the species Lilium (Easter Lillies)or Hemerocallis cause severe, acute, often deadly kidney failure in cats.
COOKING
Keep pets out of the kitchen during the hustle and bustle of the season. The last thing you want is for someone you love to get underfoot and get burned from spillage.
DIETARY INDISCRETION
We all like to include our pets in Holiday meals along with the rest of the family, but try to keep in mind that sudden rich diet changes are likely to upset a pet’s stomach. Vomiting and diarrhea are not uncommon. If leftovers are of an especially fatty nature, the pancreas may become inflamed and overloaded. This condition is serious and may require hospitalization.
Back to top
Finding a Good Home for your Pet
1. Do you really need to re-home your pet? Don’t be afraid to accept help.
a. Behavior problems: Have you consulted your veterinarian and a behaviorist?
b. Financial Difficulties/Extended Traveling: Ask a family member or trusted friend to care for your companion temporarily. Put out the word at work. You might be surprised at who will come to your aid. Humane Societies or some breed rescue groups may help "foster" in certain situations. Women's shelters often have helpful programs for women in need.
c. Trouble Finding an Apartment: Network through local humane societies and animal welfare groups. There are many apartments available that allow pets. Try Craigslist. You may have more luck renting a room or apartment in a privately owned home.
2. Allow lots of time:
If you are in a situation where you really do need to find a new home for your friend, please allow enough time to do so. It can take weeks to months to find a great home for your companion. Adult cats, special needs pets or senior pets can be particularly challenging to place.
3. How to place a pet in a GREAT home: Don't be afraid to be an advocate for your pet.
a. If you have a purebred, contact local "purebred rescue" groups.
b. Check with family, friends and co-workers. Have them help you "put the word out"!
c. Put up flyers with pictures at veterinary clinics, pet stores, work, etc..
d. Put an ad in the paper.
e. Use the already overcrowded animal shelters as an absolute last resort. Less than 10% of cats and 40% of dogs will find a home with this route.
f. Be PATIENT. Remember, it takes TIME to place a pet.
g. Be HONEST about your pets personality, energy level and needs.
h. Charge a nominal fee (at least $50.00) to discourage "Bunchers". These are unscrupulous individuals who will "adopt" your pet then sell them into animal research.
i. Ask screening questions such as "Where will the pet live?" (Avoid folks who want an "outdoor" pet). "What type of personality are you looking for in a dog (or cat)". "Can I contact you in a few weeks to see how the pet is doing in his or her new home?".
j. Check the prospective adopter's veterinary references to make certain they have a history of taking proper care of their pets.
k. Visit the prospective adopter's home if at all possible.
l. If you are not comfortable with a potential adopter, don't be afraid to say "No". It is up to you to find the best home for your furry friend.
m. Have the adopter fill out an adoption contract stating that they will care for the animal properly and will contact you if they cannot keep the pet.
n. Whatever you do, please don't simply abandon your pet. Domesticated animals do NOT survive well on their own outdoors and, unfortunately, by the time anyone realizes a pet has been abandoned inside a home, it is often too late. If you have exhausted all resources and have been patient, but have still not been able to place your beloved companion, please do the right thing and take them to a humane shelter.
For more information and a brochure (including an adoption contract), please contact Safe Harbor Animal Hospital at 616-942-8147
Back to top
Pet Dental Care
PETS Need Dental Care Too
For most of us, caring for our teeth and gums has been part of our daily routine for as long as we can remember. Just like you, your pet needs regular dental care - professional care from your veterinarian and home care from you to keep plaque removed. Daily brushing and feeding special pet foods can help.
Ask your veterinarian about T/D Dental Care Diet, Oravet Sealant, Toothbrush starter kits and Dental Chews.
CAUSES of Periodontal Disease
Plaque is a colorless film that contains large amounts of bacteria. If left unchecked, plaque builds up, creating infection, destroying gums and resulting in the loss of the tissues and bone that support the teeth. Preventive oral care can reduce the formation of plaque and help maintain proper oral health throughout your pet’s life.
SIGNS of Periodontal Disease
All pets are at risk for developing dental problems. Once your pet displays any of the warning signs below, serious periodontal disease may be present. Don’t wait for these signs. Start a preventive program of veterinarian-supervised dental care today.
Bad Breath
Yellow-brown crust on teeth
Bleeding Gums
Lack of Appetite
Change of chewing habits
Tooth Loss
Subdued Behavior
Abnormal Drooling
Dropping Food
Not chewing food
CONTRIBUTING Factors
1. Poor Oral Hygiene: Ignoring the condition of your pet’s mouth can lead to periodontal disease, tooth loss, and other serious health problems over time, such as heart, liver and kidney failure.
2. Breed: Periodontal disease is more common in smaller breeds of dogs and certain breeds of cats.
3. Age: Periodontal disease is more common as pets grow older, though 70% of pets show signs of oral disease before age three.
TIPS On Brushing Your Pet’s Teeth
Introduce a brushing program gradually and early; training may take several days or weeks.
Place your pet on a counter top facing away from you or stand over your dog if he is large. Apply a small dab of pet toothpaste on a moist toothbrush or finger brush (many pets seem more tolerant of finger brushes) . Gently brush your pet's teeth with your finger while rubbing the opposite ear with the opposite hand. Give your pet a nice, slow, shoulder and neck massage when you're done. Ask your veterinary staff to give you a demonstration. They would be delighted to!
Only attempt one side of the mouth per evening until your pet grows accustomed to the routine.
Never let a struggling pet go unless you feel he or she will bite. Only let your pet go when he or she is calm and quiet.
Make initial sessions brief and positive, gradually build up the time you brush your pet’s teeth.
You only need to brush the outer surfaces of your pet’s teeth.
Don’t forget the molars located in the back of the mouth (under the “cheek”)
Use PET toothpaste: Toothpaste designed for people contains ingredients that may upset your pet’s stomach.
Back to top
Threatening Behavior in Dogs:
Please visit www.squidoo.com/readyerdog for pictures and descriptions of dog behavior.
Learn how to read body language in dogs. Is the dog's body stiff/tense or loose/happy. Is he looking at you intensely? Tail wagging isn't always friendly. A stiff, straight in the air wag can signal arousal/aggression.
What to do if a loose dog appears to be threatening you:
1 Avoid Eye Contact
2 Be a Tree or a Turtle
3 Do not scream or run. All dogs can outrun you and this may stimulate them to attack. You may try saying "Good boy", "Good dog" in a happy, sing song voice. If that does not change the dog's body language, try number 5.
4 Avoid eye contact (It bears repeating)
5 You may tell the dog "NO" or "GO" in a deep growly voice.
6 Climb a tree if possible.
7 Yell for help only if being attacked.
If dogs are owned, try to talk to the owner. See if you can "make friends". Take a plate of cookies over for the owner and some treats for the dogs. See if you can find some common ground. Let the owner know how frightened you are. Ask nicely first.
If you aren't making any progress, it's time to contact animal control. You may try contacting the police if there is a particularly dangerous situation. Keep contacting animal control until they are able to do something about the situation. Typically, several reports must be on file before any action will be taken.
Keep pepper spray handy and use it if you feel your life is in danger.
Back to top
Know Your Breed
Why is this important?
Pure breeds of dogs were developed for certain tasks: The task they were developed to perform gives us much insight into the personality traits and activity levels we are likely to see in that breed.
For example: Jack Russell Terriers were designed to hunt and kill vermin all day.
Shetland Sheepdogs are a herding breed. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels were bred as companions.
Are these breeds likely to be dominant or submissive? High, medium or low energy? Easy or more challenging to train? Smart for a dog or smarter than a fifth grader?
Each breed has a list of pros and cons associated with it. Whether you list a breed characteristic as a pro or a con may differ depending on what you are looking for in a companion. Do you love a dog that's feisty and on the go all the time or are you happier with a dog that will be content to hang out on the couch with you?
There are many websites available with descriptions of dog breeds on them. A good place to start is www.canismajor.com. Two of the best sources of information about the pros and cons of particular breeds are 1. Your Veterinarian and 2. Individuals involved in purebred rescue. These folks are ready and willing to help you choose the breed that will fit best with your family. Breeders can sometimes be a source of information, but only if they are willing to share the drawbacks of owning a member of their chosen breed. You can also look for the parent group for your breed. For example The Chinese Shar Pei Club of America.
Knowing the breed or mix your pup will grow into is also important as you will have a better idea of what type of coat care to expect and roughly what size your pet may become.
With mixed breeds, veterinarians used to have to guess about a particular pet's lineage. Now, we have a DNA test available called Wisdom Panel MX that allows us to detect major breeds in your pet's family tree with 85% accuracy. This can help your veterinarian formulate a plan for obedience training and socialization or medical care that can vary depending on the breeds involved. The cost for this test differs from vet to vet, but usually runs around $160.00. See your veterinarian if you are interested in finding out what's in your mix!
Back to top
Weight Management in Pets: The Obesity Epidemic
A scary thing is happening at the veterinary clinic these days. Similar to their human counterparts, an ever-expanding segment of the pet population appears to be having tremendous difficulty reigning in an ever-expanding waistline. To put it bluntly, many of our pets are F. A. T. - fat!
Excessive weight gain in pets exposes them to the same health risks as humans:
1. Diabetes
2. Joint and Back Problems
3. Heart Disease
4. Breathing Problems
But, health issues are so boring to talk about and, besides, YOUR portly pet won't ever have any of those issues, right? Now that you're thinking about the potential consequences of excessive weight gain, you're probably wondering IF your pet is overweight. Well, here's how you tell. In the veterinary clinic, we use a handy technique called Body Condition Scoring. If you're not familiar with Body Condition Scoring, it's best to have your veterinarian show you how to perform the following examination:
1. In a normal dog or cat we should be able to EASILY feel the rib cage when we GENTLY run our hands along the sides of the chest with the dog standing straight. If you have to press to feel the ribs, your pet has too much padding. If you can see your pet's ribs or they feel very prominent/bony, your pet is too thin. The same is true for the tips of the pelvis.
2. Your pet should have a well-defined waist-line (i.e. "hour-glass" figure) when viewed from above.
3. And, last but not least, check the "pinch an inch" area in the lower belly between the legs. It's true, no more than and inch should be pinched. If you can "grabba handful" instead, well, that's too much!
OK, so you've admitted to yourself that Fido or Fluffy could stand to lose a few. What now? I'm going to share with you the secret to weight loss. Are you ready?
*Calories In must be LESS than Calories out*
It's so simple, but we make it so difficult. If you eat fewer calories during the day than you expend during work and play, you WILL lose weight, period. So, how do we develop a diet plan? Below you will find some sample recommendations. Again, it is always best to discuss a weight loss plan with your pet's veterinarian.
Weight Loss Plan
1. Switch to the light or low calorie version of the food you are feeding or see your veterinarian for prescription diet food designed to remove weight safely and effectively.
2. Determine what amount you should be feeding by looking on the package and feeding your pet the amount listed for a doggie or kitty that weighs at least 20% less than what your pet currently weighs. Your veterinarian may recommend cutting back even further depending on your pet's particular condition.
3. You should feed twice daily (AM and PM). This helps encourage normal metabolism. Many sumo wrestlers only eat once daily as this encourages fat retention.
4. Use an actual measuring cup to measure out the exact amount of food you should be feeding. Use very small measures for cats as even tiny "extra" amounts end up as fat deposits.
5. Make certain all family members are on the same page as far as feeding amounts and schedule. Watch toddlers/children to make sure they're not sneaking Fluffy people food and to make sure Rex hasn't become a K9 vacuum cleaner.
6. Buster cubes, feline food balls, treat puzzles that can be used for reagular food can be found at Pet Smart and can slow eating while encouraging exercise. The Eat Better Bowl can also help.
7. Speaking of exercise, regular moderate exercise will help immensely (calories out!). Playing ball, running off leash (in an enclosed area), swimming or jogging are all great. For cats, have regular daily, vigorous play sessions.
8. Most veterinarians welcome their clients to stop by at anytime to use their scale in order to assess progress.
What about treats?
Keep in mind that just 2-3 small dog biscuits can equal up to a half cup of food. Safer treats to use include raw veggies/carrots, ice cubes, or plain unbuttered air popped popcorn. You can also keep out part of your pet's measured daily portion of kibble (1/4 to 1/2 cup) and feed those as treats during the day.
Remember, pets that are normal body weight live an average of 1-2 years longer than those who are even slightly overweight. So, get out there - today - and go for a walk. You'll both feel, and look, better!
A great website with lots of informational tools is www.petfit.com. And, as always, www.safeharborvet.com
If you would like to be enrolled in our "Biggest Loser Contest for Pets", please contact Safe Harbor Animal Hospital at the number listed above. Enrollment starts June 15 and runs through July 1. The contest runs from July 1 to December 1. Prizes will be given to the top three Biggest Losers.
Back to top
According to the American Animal Hospital Association, roughly 30% of families have experienced the heart-break of losing their pet. Unfortunately, many of those families never see their furry friend again. This article is full of tips that will help the two of you reunite.
Time is of the essence when you are trying to relocate a missing pet. The longer your pet is isn't safe at home, the lower the odds that it will ever happen. So, what should you do if Fluffy is AWOL and what steps should you take if you're the one who finds someone's stray companion?
First, call all local papers and place a “lost” ad and make sure you read the “found” ads every day. Sometimes, the person who found the pet will place a “found” ad and assume the owner of the pet will check the paper. Likewise, the pet owner who placed the “lost” ad will assume the person who found the pet will check the paper. Many pets do not find their way home due to these assumptions. If you have found a stray pet, many newspapers will run a “found” ad free for a certain number of days. Call all ads that even remotely resemble your pet. Many people incorrectly guess breed or breed mix, weight, color and/or sex. Also, some people will place a collar on or take an existing collar off of a found pet.
The next step is to find two recent, clear, color photographs of your pet and make “lost” posters. If possible, one photo should be of your pet from the front, the other of your pet from the side. Add a close-up if available. List any and all unique or distinguishing marks your pet may have.
If you have found a pet, put as little detail on the “found” poster as possible. If someone calls you regarding the pet you have found, ask the person claiming to be the owner to describe the pet in detail before you give the pet up. Do not answer questions about the pet. There are unscrupulous individuals out there who will pretend to be the owner. These individuals ("Bunchers" or "Class B Dealers") then typically sell the animals to research laboratories or puppy mills. If you believe you've found your stray's owner, have the individual bring proof of ownership such as a picture.
Once you have made the posters, put them up all over the area in which you lost or found the pet. Pass them out to as many neighbors as possible. Enlist their help if they are willing. Also, place the posters at all local veterinarians, groomers, boarding facilities, humane shelters, and animal control facilities. If you do not have current pictures of your pet from the front and from the side, please consider taking some.
If your lost pet is spotted, it is important not to run after them. They may be scared. Sit down on the ground and call your pet. Use your pet's name. Have delicious treats with you. Use phrases your pet enjoys like: "Do you want a treat? Do you want to go for a walk/go for a ride?", etc.". Cats may need to be live-trapped.
Do not rely on individuals at humane shelters or animal control facilities to find your pet. While the people who work in these places strive to reunite as many pets with their owners as possible, these organizations handle thousands of animals each year and see literally hundreds of cats which may look exactly like your lost brown tabby cat or dogs that closely resemble your lost beagle mix. Call your local shelters (within at least a 30 mile radius) to find out where strays are housed and what the minimum holding period is. The minimum holding period is the length of time a shelter is required to hold a stray pet before euthanasia is performed. This varies from county to county and is often 2-4 days. Visit the shelter in person at least once during every minimum holding period. Make certain you are taken into all areas of the shelter, including "intake", "isolation" and "bite hold" sections to search for your pet.
Would you like to ensure that your pet finds her way home to you should she become lost? Identification tags and microchips are two simple ways to guarantee her safe return. Unidentified pets have less than a 10% chance of ever finding their way home. Even if your pet lives exclusively indoors, all it takes is one open door, one loose screen, an open window or natural disaster and your pet is on the loose with absolutely no identification. The best tag is one with your home phone number and your pet's name on it. Additional tags such as rabies (as long as the clinic name and number are on it), and county license can be helpful if they are current. If the tags are not current, chances are we cannot trace them. If your pet has a habit of losing tags, write the pet’s name and your phone number on his or her collar with permanent marker.
In addition to an I.D. tag, all pets should be microchipped. Microchips are a permanent form of identification placed under the skin in between the shoulder blades. If your pet were to lose his collar, he would still have a form of identification on him. Microchips are safe and inexpensive and your veterinarian can place one in seconds while your pet is awake. Make certain the person placing the microchip has had proper training. This procedure is best performed under veterinary supervision. Remember to update your registration information with the microchip company if you move or they will not be able to call you when your pet is located.
A note to folks with senior pets. Don’t assume your older pet has passed away if he or she goes missing! Stray elderly pets are seen at the shelter every day. It is absolutely heart breaking to see a senior pet languishing in the shelter. When an older pet goes missing, they haven't purposefully "gone off to die", they have usually just gotten a little confused and wandered outside their home range. Please look for your older pet if he or she is lost. They deserve it!
Last but not least, don’t give up! In some cases it can take a few months to find a missing pet. This typically occurs when the well-meaning individuals who originally found the pet, keep the pet for too long before attempting to find the owner or surrendering the pet to a shelter. So, keep at it and, remember, the more often people see your pet's information, the more likely they are to recognize your pet.
Back to top
New Puppy 101
Few days are as exciting as the day you bring your new puppy home. But, before you do, here are a few things you should consider.
For the scope of this article, we’ll assume you’ve already researched at length which breeds or mixed breeds will be compatible with your lifestyle, what constitutes a reputable, knowledgeable dog breeder (and it’s not just the breeder telling you they’re reputable!) and that you have read a lot about how to choose a mentally and physically healthy puppy. You already know that the pet store is the worst possible place to purchase a puppy and that pet rescues can be the greatest resources for locating your new best friend. You’ve also discussed your research with a high-quality veterinarian who can let you know whether you’re on the right track.
Now, on to the fun part. Things you need (preferably) before you bring home that little bundle of fuzz.
1. Knowledge Base: Understand that you are bringing another living being into your home who speaks a completely different language and has a different set of instincts than you do. This little “alien” will quickly progress from toddler to teenager in the span of one year. It’s up to you as the “smarter” one in the relationship to learn all you can from books, videos, behaviorists and your veterinarian about how to communicate appropriately with your new friend.
Remember, your pup is a learning sponge during that first year. She will be learning with every interaction you have. If you don’t take the time to teach her the behaviors you desire, she will quickly learn things you are not terribly impressed with.
**The NUMBER ONE reason relationships between pets and people fail is due to lack of initiative and knowledge on the part of the human element within the relationship. If something‘s not working, it‘s up to you to seek knowledgeable, positive reinforcement-based help. Keep seeking help until something does work. If a training method doesn‘t seem to make sense or focuses on punishing negative behavior rather than shaping positive behavior, seek a new method.**
Keep learning. One dog training class just doesn’t cut it. The only way your dog is going to get trained and stay trained is if you keep learning and keep training.
The best source of information is your veterinarian. Choosing a veterinary professional can be tricky, though. Just as most of us likely wouldn’t choose a human physician based on “who’s cheapest”, neither should you choose a doctor of veterinary medicine in this fashion. You want a doctor who is able to spend time with you and your pet and who takes time to pursue continuing education. Ask your friends and family what veterinarian they go to and what things they like and dislike about that veterinary hospital. Look online. Most veterinary hospitals now have websites where you can take a virtual tour and get to know the staff before your visit. Talk to a staff member on the phone. Before you make an appointment, take a tour of the actual facility. Is it clean and up to date? Do you feel your pet will receive the highest-quality medical care available in a friendly, family-oriented environment? What is the doctor’s background? Will they be able to help you with more than just medical issues? How much continuing education do the doctors and staff pursue? There is, unfortunately, a large amount of variation in the quality of veterinary medical facilities. Most poor quality facilities can be avoided by just using common sense.
2. Crate: In order to quickly teach your puppy the fine art of being housetrained and in order to save your sofa from being shredded during teething you will need a crate. Initially, your pup should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and stretch out comfortably. After your pup becomes housebroken, you can increase the amount of crate space available. Most dogs can be weaned off of crates after they are successfully housetrained, have learned some basic obedience and have finished teething. Obtain information about crate training from your veterinarian.
3. Puppy Proofing: As little carnivores, young pups will put absolutely everything (including shoes, electrical cords, throw pillows, garbage, toys, hair ties, etc., etc.) into their mouths. While your pup is young, make sure you pick everything up. Help your pup learn what is his by only providing 2-3 toys at a time and diverting him to his own toys whenever he tries to pick up something of yours. Learn how to train the words “Out” and “Leave It” using positive reinforcement methods. If your pup does destroy something, admit to yourself that you messed up by leaving it out and then not watching the pup closely enough. Don’t worry, you’ll do better next time.
Never, ever, ever punish a pet “after the fact”. They do not know what they are being punished for (despite that “guilty” look - which, by the way, isn’t guilt at all, just submission - I.e. the head lowered, avoiding eye contact, ears back expression that looks like they “know they did something wrong” - well, that’s your pup’s way of saying “I know you’re angry. I know you’re the boss. Please don’t hurt me”). If you catch your pet in the act, you can distract them by saying “NO” in a deep, growly tone, then divert them to one of their own toys and praise them for chewing on the appropriate object.
Most accidents (both chewing and elimination related) are due to us giving the pup too much freedom way too quickly. Keep the pup in whatever room you happen to be in using either a leash, a crate or a baby gate until training is progressing nicely. If you start giving some freedom and you backslide, remove the freedom again for a while. This isn’t a sprint, it’s a short marathon. The work you do now will pay off tremendously in the future.
4. Toys: Most pets love toys as much as kids do. Toys that can be chewed apart and possibly swallowed should only be used with supervision. Keep 2-3 toys out at a time. More than that can confuse a pup as they learn what they are or aren’t allowed to chew on. You may rotate those toys every 3-4 weeks with other toys.
Food or treat puzzles like the “Buster Cube” are wonderful for slowing down eating and keeping your pet occupied. A Kong toy with a small amount of peanut butter on the inside can also keep Fido occupied for a bit.
5. Food: A good, high-quality diet is essential. You often get what you pay for when it comes to pet food. I like to rotate the brand and type of food my pet is eating as each food has a different nutrient profile. I also occasionally supplement with cooked whole meats, whole grains, and veggies. My favorite pet food brands are Eukanuba, Wellness and Science Diet.
Please be aware that while the internet can sometimes be a source of valuable information, currently there is a tremendous amount of misinformation regarding nutrition (and, unfortunately, most other topics) for pets written by very misguided individuals. Your best source of information regarding pet foods is a veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist. Also be cautious about receiving nutritional information from a pet store employee as this often akin to taking human nutritional advise from the shelf stocker at Wal-Mart.
6. Introducing Kids and Cats and Old Dogs and Puppies: Kids and puppies typically get along quite well from day one. A couple of reminders. You are the adult. Your children will help take care of the pet, but it should never be their primary responsibility. They are children. They quickly lose interest in doing the dirty work. Don’t make the pet suffer because your child made promises they didn’t keep.
Puppies often look at children as littermates with no leadership status. It is important to set some ground rules. Children should help obedience train, feed and care for the dog. No biting of the children is allowed (even in play). Children should only pet the pup when it has “Four on the Floor” - never when jumping up. Have the children participate in obedience classes so they can learn how to communicate with the new pup. Watch their interactions closely and intervene when needed.
Cats need to be introduced more slowly. Positively reinforce your cat by giving her a treat and talking softly to her whenever she comes into the room. The pup should be kept on a leash initially and rewarded for exhibiting positive behavior around the cat. Do not allow the pup to chase the cat. Step in and remove the pup if the two are playing and the pup is getting out of hand.
Older dogs are wonderful teachers. Allow them to let the pup know when to back off. As long as they don’t physically have a hold of the pup, they’re just letting the little whipper-snapper know he’s out of control. If the old guy is getting really crabby, remove the pup. Your more mature friend will know you’ve got his back and he won’t have to escalate things. Give your first “baby” lots of extra love, some alone time with you and a little treat a few times a day when he sees the puppy. Make the association as positive as possible.
7. Traveling: If you are going to be traveling before your pet is fully housetrained, make certain to find someone who will take the pup and continue the housetraining in your absence. Kenneling a puppy that is not fully housetrained can set the process back quite a bit.
8. Collar and Leash: A flat, nylon or leather collar is best. It should be tight enough that it will not slip over the head, but loose enough that you can put two fingers between the collar and the neck without them feeling pinched. Remember, pups grow at a rapid rate, so remember to check the collar weekly and readjust as necessary. Training leashes should be flat nylon or leather and no longer than six feet. Chain leashes are murder on the hands and retractable leashes are useless for training though they can be nice for walking as long as your pup is trained not to pull.
9. Food Dishes: Stainless Steel or ceramic are best. Keep the bowls clean. Keep the water fresh.
10. Indoor or Outdoor: Dogs are social animals who crave attention and companionship from their families. No dog should ever have to live outside in what amounts to a life sentence of virtual solitary confinement.
10. The Rules: Decide early on, as a family, what kind of relationship you want to have with your pet. Your pup is a clean slate right now. It’s up to you to teach her the rules of the household in a humane and knowledgeable manner.
You have just taken on the responsibility of caring for a thinking, feeling, living toddler of another species. Congratulations! With just a little effort on your part, you will have a friend who will love you unconditionally for all of his or her days.
Does the thought of leaving your pet alone in your home send shivers down your spine? Do you wonder what new objects your furry friend will find to destroy while you’re away? Have you had enough, but you don’t know what to do? Well, read on, your pet may have separation anxiety and there are training techniques that can help Fido learn that it’s OK to be “home alone”.
First, we need to discern whether Fluffy actually has separation anxiety or if he is just bored.
With boredom, we typically see:
1. A dog that has little outlet for running/romping/expending energy every single day (this is equally important for all dogs, but especially important for pooches that are destroying objects due to boredom. A tired dog is a happy dog!
2. Often, more destruction happens the longer the pet is left alone. Boredom becomes worse over longer time frames. Things destroyed typically include any objects that are left lying around.
3. Bored dogs may or may not have other signs of anxiety.
With separation anxiety, we usually see:
1. A dog that tends to be “clingy” and often “shadows" our every move.
2. A dog that sometimes shows signs of anxiety in other situations.
3. A dog that destroys objects no matter how long you are gone, often within the first 5 to 30 minutes (this is when their anxiety is most intense).
4. Destroyed objects often escalate past objects left lying around and progress to chewing or clawing flooring, walls, couches and sometimes even going through windows.
5. Severe separation anxiety may result in urinating, defecating or profuse drooling.
If you are unsure whether your dog is just untrained and bored or has separation anxiety, please contact a veterinarian with a background in behavior or an animal behavior specialist for a consultation.
It is incredibly important to recognize that if your pet has separation anxiety, he or she may have a very serious panic disorder. Just as with people, some pets are born with anxious temperaments and need help to overcome these traits. However, there are many socialization and training errors we humans make that cause symptoms of anxiety to worsen in these pets and can even CAUSE them in completely normal animals. Let’s look at the common errors people tend to make:
1. Not Being An Effective Leader: This doesn’t mean you need to “dominate” your dog. It means that you learn about positive reinforcement training and how to shape behaviors you want and discourage behaviors you don’t want. When dogs don’t have consistency and knowledgeable, effective leadership, they tend to become anxious. The fact is that the majority of dogs DO NOT want to be leaders. We have selectively bred dogs not to be “Alpha”. But, through ignorance, we tend to force them into this position. See www.safeharborvet.com: Links: Behavior and Training for more information on how to become a positive leader for your dog.
2. Punishing the Dog “After the Fact”: This means that you come home, see the destruction, and immediately yell at, or worse, physically punish your pet for their misdeed. If you want the BEST and QUICKEST way to make an anxiety disorder WORSE then DO THIS. Your pet, no matter how “guilty” he or she looks, DOES NOT associate your anger with their earlier actions. All they know is that you’re home and you’re angry. The “guilty” look they are giving you is submission. When a dog lowers his head, avoids eye contact and flattens his ears and tail what he is saying is: “I know you’re mad, I recognize you’re the boss, Please don’t hurt me”.
Pets ARE capable of making the following association: Mess + Mom/Dad Home = Anger. They are NOT capable of associating: My Action of Chewing on the Couch Earlier + Mom/Dad Home = Anger.
3. Not Seeking Help: Now listen carefully - If dogs could make the aforementioned association - they would not engage in the activity that made you so upset. I want you to go take a good look at your dog. Do you honestly believe he is actively thinking of ways to spite you right now? Ridiculous thought, isn’t it? You are the “smarter” of the two species in the room. If you are having a behavior problem with your pet that you can’t solve - GET HELP from a knowledgeable veterinarian or behavior specialist who understands positive reinforcement training/behavior shaping/operant conditioning.
OK, so now we know the ways we can make the situation worse. How exactly are we going to make it better? What follows is a list of basic behavior modifications you can perform at home that will help your pet overcome their separation anxiety if it is a mild case. For moderate to severe anxiety (severe shadowing, destruction of walls/carpet/couches or windows, drooling, defecating or urinating), your pet will likely need anxiety medication so they can learn new behaviors.
Behavior Modification for Separation Anxiety:
1. Obedience classes with an instructor who understands positive reinforcement, behavior shaping and operant conditioning. If your instructor can’t explain to you what these words mean, find a better instructor. The more you can learn how to communicate with your dog appropriately, the more confident he or she will become.
2. Learn to Become an Effective Leader.
3. Don’t make a big deal about leaving. Ignore your dog for about five minutes prior to departure and simply leave.
4. Leave a wonderful treat that takes your dog at LEAST 10 minutes to eat completely. A food or treat puzzle (Buster Cube or similar) or Kong toy with natural peanut butter smeared on the inside or soaked and frozen kibble stuffed inside that your pet only gets to enjoy when you leave. The treat must be taken away when you come home.
5. DO NOT -EVER- punish your pet if you come home to a mess. See number 2 above. Place your pet in another room and quietly clean up the destruction. Remember, your pet can’t help herself. Take a deep breath, count to 20 and develop a plan for avoiding the destruction next time.
6. Exercise, Exercise, Exercise. Get out, go for a run. Try Agility, Freestyle obedience or flyball classes. Join the dog park. Whatever it takes.
7. Do not give your pet attention when he asks for it. Ignore attempts to force you to pet him. Three to five times daily go and seek out your pet. Give him attention for being calm and quiet.
8. Discourage shadowing behavior. Do not allow your pet to follow you everywhere for short periods throughout the day. Accomplish this using leashes or baby gates in certain rooms. Make initial sessions very short. Shut your pet out of the bathroom when you are using it. Practice “Down/Stays” and “Sit/Stays” after you have learned them in obedience class or with a private instructor.
9. Do not make a big deal about returning home. Wait for your pet to calm down before greeting. Give her a chew toy to keep her occupied if necessary. Don’t forget to greet her quietly and calmly after she has settled down.
10. Desensitize your pet to objects that indicate you are leaving. For example, have you noticed that your pet gets excited or starts becoming anxious when you pick up your keys or put your coat on? If so, practice picking up and setting down your keys over and over and over many times on lots of different days. You should start to notice that after several repetitions, your pet learns to ignore this sign that you are leaving.
11. If you are not making progress or your pet’s behavior is worsening, please contact a professional.
Can you imagine how terrible it would be to live your life in an almost constant state of panic? Pets with separation anxiety need help! Don’t let another day go by without seeking assistance for your four-legged family member.
Halloween Safety
Trick-or-treaters, Jack-o’-lanterns, haunted houses and costume parties. There’s no doubt about it, for humans, Halloween is fun, fun, fun! But what do our four-legged friends think about all of this excitement? Well, the answer depends upon your pet. It’s a good idea to be extra cautious this time of the year. If this is your pet’s first Halloween, you’ll have to gauge how well he or she deals with the changes in schedule, additional visitors to the home, costumes and overall increased hubbub.
For a shy or nervous pet, it is generally best to keep them in a separate room with a nice treat to chew on, a soft bed to sleep in, and a radio playing softly so they can avoid the noisy and often stressful situations that accompany most Halloween events. If your pet becomes extremely agitated at this time of year, talk to your veterinarian about a behavior consultation and the possibility of some short-term anti-anxiety medication so your friend doesn’t have to feel panicked.
If your pet is generally happy, friendly and very well-behaved, you may be able to include him in some of the festivities. Use proper judgment putting your pet’s and the human participant’s safety above all else. If your pet seems uncomfortable with any situation it is best to remove her before there is a problem.
Keep the following precautions in mind when preparing for Halloween celebrations.
1. Make certain your pet is in a secure location during trick-or-treating and be sure all pets are wearing collars with ID tags:
Dogs and cats could become frightened by the unaccustomed sights and sounds of costumed visitors. In addition, frequently opened doors provide a perfect opportunity for escape, which can go unnoticed during all the commotion. Consider microchipping your pet in addition to keeping a collar with ID tags on him.
2. Cats - black ones in particular - often fall victim to unscrupulous individuals:
Keep cats safely indoors. Halloween pranks committed against pets can be vicious.
3. Place live flame decorations like candles and jack-o’-lanterns out of your pet’s reach:
Curious critters can be singed or burned or knock over a candle or pumpkin causing a fire.
4. Keep candy in a secure location away from pets:
Mmmm, who doesn’t love candy? Pets are often as attracted to the delicious sweets as we are. The problem is that certain types of candy, particularly chocolate and candy or gum containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can be toxic to pets. Candy wrappers can also be harmful if swallowed.
The amount of chocolate or xylitol that needs to be ingested to cause illness or death varies as each pet appears to have individual sensitivities to these toxins.
Please, if your pet has ingested chocolate or sugar-free gum/candy, contact your veterinarian for advice. Treatment starting within one to two hours after ingestion is much easier, less expensive, and will result in a better outcome for your pet than waiting until she is physically ill.
There are much different levels of theobromine (the component in chocolate that can be poisonous to dogs and cats) in dark and baker’s chocolate (very high levels) than in milk chocolate (lower levels). For example: The fatal dose of milk chocolate for a cocker-spaniel sized dog would be approximately one to one and one half pounds. The same dog would only need to ingest approximately two to three ounces of baker’s chocolate to receive a fatal dose. The smaller your pet is, the less he would have to consume to have a deadly reaction. Signs of chocolate toxity may include vomiting, agitation/hyper-excitability, seizures, coma and death.
For xylitol, a 20 lb dog could have a severe reaction if she ingested one to two sticks of sugar-free gum with an average amount of this compound in it. Again, please contact your veterinarian immediately if your pet has eaten anything that may be toxic to her. Time is usually of the essence if you want to avoid signs of illness or death. Signs of xylitol toxicity may include lethargy, weakness, trembling, coma and death.
5. Be Careful with Costumes:
Introduce your pet to wearing a costume slowly using lots of positive reinforcement. Many pets enjoy the extra attention they receive when they are dressed up, however, many more pets are not amused. Don’t force this on your pet if they are not enjoying themselves. Halloween should be fun for everyone. Make sure the costume fits well and doesn‘t interfere with your pet‘s ability to breathe, see, hear, move or vocalize. Use only under direct supervision as pets may chew off and swallow parts of a costume if left unattended.
6. Decorations can be Dangerous:
Keep items that pets could chomp on such as streamers, fake spider webs, wires and cords out of reach. Chewing these objects could cause choking, intestinal obstruction, illness or electrical shock.
Bringing a Pet Home for the Holidays
The holiday season is one of the most popular time to bring a new pet into your household. This can be particularly rewarding if you are thinking of saving a life by adopting a homeless/rescued pet from the animal shelter or humane society. It can be a wonderful time to add another family member, but there are several things you will need to think about before adding a pet during this often chaotic time of year.
Plan Ahead: Christmas Day may not be the best day to introduce a new pet into the family unless you are very committed to giving the new baby lots of time and extra attention and making sure that the new pet is not frightened by numerous visitors or activities in the home and isn't forgotten about during the hustle and bustle. If possible, it is recommended to introduce a new pet into a household a little before or after the holiday. That way, your new family member will have time to adjust to everyone and housebreaking, exercising and feeding routines can be established in a less hectic environment.
An alternative to adding the pet on Christmas day would be to gift wrap a picture of the pet you have chosen or a gift certificate to the rescue that you plan on adopting from and placing that under the tree. You could also gift wrap a book on pet care and training and toys, grooming aids, food, collar, leash and bedding. Then plan on adding Fluffy or Fido a few days afterward. What fun!
Make Certain: If you are purchasing a pet as a Christmas "surprise" for someone. Make sure you know exactly what coat type, energy level, and temperament the person is looking for, otherwise you may have a mismatch.
Be Realistic: I know little Susie and Johnny begged up a storm for that new puppy or kitten and promised you that they would feed and water and walk and play with and pick up after. But, be realistic. As the adult in the household, you will be the primary caretaker for this pet. It is wonderful to get your children involved in the caretaking process, they should be. Do not, however, allow the pet to suffer simply because your children lose interest. Make sure you, as the parent, are prepared to take on all the responsibilities of pet ownership.
Back to top
The Dangers of Online Pharmacies
1. Certain medications (i.e. Frontline, Heartgard, Sentinel, Advantage, etc..) being sold through third parties (catalogs, internet pharmacies, Costco, etc.) are diverted medications of unknown source. The manufacturers of these products do not sell to third parties. They only sell their products through veterinarians for a variety of safety reasons.
2. Most manufacturers will NOT guarantee their products unless they are purchased directly from a veterinarian (this does not include veterinary-run online pharmacies as no valid veterinarian/client/patient relationship exists). Please contact the manufacturer of the product for more information.
2. The EPA has found numerous counterfeit products available for purchase through internet pharmacies or catalogs. These counterfeit products did not contain the medications they claimed to. Diverted or counterfeit products could possibly be dangerous or even deadly to your pet. Please see: www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/illegalproducts/ or http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/retailerfactsh.pdf or www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/flea-tick.htm for more information.
3. Many internet pharmacies and catalogs have been shut down or are currently under or have been under litigation in several states for illegal pharmacy practice (This includes very well-known/visible companies). For information from the FDA regarding internet pharmacies, please see: http://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm048164.htm.
4. Certain products such as vaccinations and some medications must be handled in specific ways and kept at precise temperatures in order to maintain their effectiveness. This does not always happen when multiple shipping processes are used.
5. If you do not wish to take risks with your pet's health, the best place to purchase pet medications is through your veterinarian. There you can be certain the educated staff is working hard to provide your pet with the safest medication available directly from the actual manufacturer.
Back to top
|
|
|
