For most of us, caring for our teeth and gums has been part of our daily routine for as long as we can remember. Just like you, your pet needs regular dental care - professional care from your veterinarian and home care from you to keep plaque removed. Daily brushing and feeding special pet foods can help.

Ask your veterinarian about T/D Dental Care Diet, Oravet Sealant, Toothbrush starter kits and Dental Chews.

Plaque is a colorless film that contains large amounts of bacteria. If left unchecked, plaque builds up, creating infection, destroying gums and resulting in the loss of the tissues and bone that support the teeth. Preventive oral care can reduce the formation of plaque and help maintain proper oral health throughout your pet’s life.

1. Poor Oral Hygiene: Ignoring the condition of your pet’s mouth can lead to periodontal disease, tooth loss, and other serious health problems over time, such as heart, liver and kidney failure.

2. Breed: Periodontal disease is more common in smaller breeds of dogs and certain breeds of cats.

3. Age: Periodontal disease is more common as pets grow older, though 70% of pets show signs of oral disease before age three.

Introduce a brushing program gradually and early; training may take several days or weeks.

Place your pet on a counter top facing away from you or stand over your dog if he is large. Apply a small dab of pet toothpaste on a moist toothbrush or finger brush (many pets seem more tolerant of finger brushes) . Gently brush your pet's teeth with your finger while rubbing the opposite ear with the opposite hand. Give your pet a nice, slow, shoulder and neck massage when you're done. Ask your veterinary staff to give you a demonstration. They would be delighted to!

Only attempt one side of the mouth per evening until your pet grows accustomed to the routine.

Never let a struggling pet go unless you feel he or she will bite. Only let your pet go when he or she is calm and quiet.

Make initial sessions brief and positive, gradually build up the time you brush your pet’s teeth.

You only need to brush the outer surfaces of your pet’s teeth.

Don’t forget the molars located in the back of the mouth (under the “cheek”)

Use PET toothpaste: Toothpaste designed for people contains ingredients that may upset your pet’s stomach.


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Nail Trimming

1. Patience: Teach nail trimming slowly. Trim one nail per night if that's what it takes. If your pet has never had a bad experience or hasn't yet "taught you" to let him go when he struggles, trimming nails isn't going to be difficult to introduce. If, however, your pet already gets upset if you even mention a pedicure, you may need some help.

2. Consistency Never, ever let your pet go when they are struggling. Fluffy only receives freedom when she's being a good dog and holding still in a quiet, calm manner. She may have you convinced that you're amputating a leg, but you're not. Approach nail trimming in the same calm, matter of fact manner every time. Don't call your pet to you to trim their nails. Ignore negative behavior (struggling, screaming), praise the positive (silence, relaxation, lack of struggling).

3. Persistence If you do not desensitize your pet to nail trimming, expect a struggle every time. Use a muzzle if needed. Obtain medication from your veterinarian to help calm your pet if necessary.

4. Knowledge Nails should be kept short enough that they are not "clicking" on the ground. Excessively long nails can make it difficult to walk (especially for senior pets) and can cause arthritis in the toes and muscle soreness along the legs. Nail trimming DOES NOT hurt (if done properly) regardless of what the Pedipaws commercial may have led you to believe :-)

If you can see the quick (the pink area where the blood vessels and nerves reside) - you're in luck. Simply don't cut into it! If the nails are dark and you cannot see the quick, only cut very small bits off the end at a time. It’s time to stop when you begin to see the grayish colored quick in the center of the cut surface of the nail. Only cut the "curved" portion of the nail, never the "straight line".

If you accidentally cut the quick, gently apply a moderate amount of styptic powder to the cut surface. Hold pressure for 30-60 seconds. Apply more if needed. Remember, this isn't a good thing, but it's also not the end of the world. Don't let it cause you anxiety that will be passed on to your pup. Be careful not to accidentally pull hair or pinch pads/skin.

Don’t forget the dew claws!

5. Goals A trusting, calm pup who will allow you to trim their nails without pitching a major fit.


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Home Cooked Diets

Is it safe to feed your pet a Home-Cooked diet?  The answer is:  Yes - if (and this is a BIG if) it is done properly. 

Will my pet be healthier if I feed them a complete and balanced Home-Cooked diet?  The answer is:  Maybe.  The verdict is still out on this one.  There is, as of yet, no actual scientific evidence to prove this one way or another.  There is only anecdotal evidence on both sides of the fence. 

Personally, I feed my dog a variety of different brands and types of high-quality commercially prepared diets supplemented with home-cooked.   Since every pet requires different nutrition and every diet has a different nutrient profile, I feel a variety will help avoid long-term excesses or deficiencies.  

We will assume the information we are discussing today pertains to cooked diets and not raw.  Raw diets cannot, in general, be recommended due to risk of bacterial contamination (dependent on meat supply and handling), parasites, bacterial shedding, and dental fractures. 

Pros:

1.  Fresh, unprocessed, whole ingredients

2.  Phytonutrients, probiotics, etc. 

3.  Avoidance of chemical preservatives, additives, and artificial colorings and flavors if ingredients are chosen properly.

4.  Potential unknown health benefits related to food that hasn't been super-heated and pressurized. 

Cons:

1.  Unbalanced diet formulations in most “natural” books and recipes found online. 

2.  “Diet Drift”:  The biggest problem with home-cooked diets.  Owners start with a balanced formula, then - over time - drift away from the balanced diet by substituting or adding/subtracting ingredients for a variety of reasons.  Nutrient deficiencies or excesses then become common.  Careful attention to proper preparation is critical to prevent both vitamin and mineral deficiencies and excesses. 

3.  Without a semester of clinical nutrition, it can be very hard to learn how to assess nutrients properly, particularly with the unbelievable amount of misinformation available on the internet in regards to pet foods.

4.  Time-Consuming

6.  You must stay “up to date”.  Knowledge regarding nutrient requirements and nutritional management of diseases is constantly evolving.  Your diets should be re-evaluated at least yearly to make certain they reflect the most current nutritional research and to confirm that they are complete and balanced for your pet’s life stage, activity level and health status.

7.  You will need the help of a veterinary nutritionist with access to computer software in order to provide a complete and balanced diet for your pet.  www.balanceit.com and www.petdiets.com.  There are private consultations or consults available with the aid of your veterinarian. 

8.  You will need special vitamin/mineral supplements designed to meet the needs of pets being fed a home-cooked diet.  Human multi-vitamin supplements are not appropriate and general pet vitamin/mineral supplements designed to be given with commercial diets are not appropriate. 

9.  Nutrient deficiencies or excesses can take months to years become apparent.

Some things to think about:

1.  Are grains “bad” for pets?

2.  Do pets eat the skeletal meat only, or the whole carcass?  What does this include? 

3.  Taking into account the wild ancestor’s diet is always a good idea.  But, remember this:  “All natural” doesn’t always equal better or safe.  Average lifespan of an “all natural” wolf:  4-6 years.  Average lifespan of your dog:  11-13 years.  Many are living even longer.  Natural things aren‘t always good for you.  Some examples include:  Rattlesnake venom, arsenic and death.  One of my favorite sayings is this:  “I intend to keep an open mind, just not so open that my brains fall out.”  When looking at information on the net ask three questions:  Does this person have any actual scientific training?  What are they selling?  Do they have proof to back up each and every claim they are making? 

4.  Ingredients (chicken, corn, spinach, beef, etc.) versus nutrients (fats, proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, fatty acids). 

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Nutrition

Myths and Facts

Tremendous confusion these days.

1. Use caution when deciding from whom to accept nutrition advise. The stock boy at the local pet supply store is usually not a good bet. Always ask what education/background they have in clinical nutrition.

2. The words "all natural", "human grade", "holistic" and "organic" (true organic foods have the green and white USDA/organic symbol on them) on pet food labels currently have no regulation. Also be cautious of the phrases "with" or "dinner/supper".

3. Dogs and cats in the wild eat the whole carcass, not just the skeletal meat.

4. As with most other things in life, you often get what you pay for. That doesn't mean that all high priced foods are great, but it is almost impossible for a pet food manufacturer to include high quality proteins without charging appropriately.

5. Rotate - Don't mix.

6. Adding in fresh veggies and meats in moderate quantities is not a bad idea.

7. www.dogfoodproject.com

www.petdiets.com

www.balanceit.com

www.safeharborvet.com (pet library)

8. Wholesome, nutritious, balanced home cooked diets can be achieved with lots of research and hard work. Bear in mind that many of the diets found on the internet have been shown to be unbalanced.

The "natural" diets of cats: rabbits and mice are inherently taurine deficient. Not such a problem if you only live 3-5 years in the wild.

9. With hundreds of diets, comparing foods may be impossible. However, you could go with companies that have more rigid quality assurances, are ISO compliant, test the batches prior to mixing and processing, do feeding trials, do digestibility trials, and refrain from unsupported claims on the label. 

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Come When Called

Things you need:

1. Patience If you've unfortunately already taught your pup how NOT to come when called, you're gonna need this! This is a behavior that most properly socialized puppies have an innate desire to perform. Most puppies come when called naturally. We humans tend to "unteach" this behavior.

2. Consistency Never, ever call your dog without a firm grip on the reality of the situation you are in. What is the likelihood your pup is going to come to you? Does she even know what the word means? Learn to hold your tongue.

3. Persistence Teaching it is easy if you practice and follow a few simple rules. Unteaching a dog that has learned to ignore this command - not so easy. This is one command where frequent, daily practice is necessary if you want your pet to be trustworthy off leash someday.

4. Knowledge THE RULES

Don't use your pup's name then the word "no" or call your pup then punish him.

Never call your pup to do "bad" things to him (nail trim, bath, playtime is over, etc).

If you didn't hold your tongue, don't take out your anger on your pup when he finally DOES come to you

If you are positive your pup will turn and come to you the first time you call even if he is in hot pursuit of a squirrely, then - and ONLY then - is your pup allowed off leash in open areas.

Call your pup to you frequently through the day. Reward, let go.

Always run away, not toward, your dog if he is loose and not coming to you. Act ridiculous.

Your reward should be better than the distraction. Vary the reward. Toys, walk, car ride, treats, etc.

Start out in situations of minimal distraction. Loose leash work is very important.

Pup's name, kiss/kiss/kiss, Goooood, treat.

Name, Gooood, back up, "Come", treat

5. Goals A furry friend who can safely romp with you off-leash some day

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Pay Attention, Watch Me, Redirection

Wouldn't it be great if our dog's looked to us for direction! It is possible! But, you have to do your homework. Some dogs need more incentive than others.

This command is really the stepping stone to all others. It should communicate to your dog: "Pay attention and be ready for further instructions."

1. Keep treats on you. Watch for your dog to look to you, then praise. Add the word "Watch Me" or "Look"

2. You may lure your dog's attention with a treat. Time the reward correctly though.

3. Try not to bend over your dog. Stand straight.

4. Reinforce eye contact by holding a treat i your hand behind your back or by your side. Your dog will probably stare at your hand, but be patient and don't say a word. Eventually, she'll look up at you. The second she makes eye contact, give her the treat.

5. Initially work toward a quick response to your cue "watch me." When she looks at ou immediately, then begin to increase the length of time she looks at you before you give the reward. Start to vary the amount of time and the reward involved. You are building attention span, so be patient.

6. Never say your pets name in association with negative consequences. Always positive.

You can reward your pet for looking at you when you say their name in the same way that you reward the "Watch me" command.

7. Less confident dogs may look away as a gesture of submission to you. If necessary, look at the top of her head or her ear rather than directly into her eyes. As your relationship grows, she should become more comfortable with sustained eye contact with you.

8. Use treats initially, but wean away over time.

9. Don't forget to "jackpot" from time to time and VARY your reward.

10. Initially, you may have to use a LOT of treats to keep your dog's attention. But, as long as you are consistent with your commands, you should be able to wean down/off of treats at some point.

11. Focus on your dog, not on what those around you are thinking.

12. Know the difference between bribery and reward.

13. Practice at home first. Remember that you will have to start over at step one when you add distractions. 

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Know Your Breed

Why is this important?

Pure breeds of dogs were developed for certain tasks: The task they were developed to perform gives us much insight into the personality traits and activity levels we are likely to see in that breed.

For example: Jack Russell Terriers were designed to hunt and kill vermin all day.

Shetland Sheepdogs are a herding breed. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels were bred as companions.

Are these breeds likely to be dominant or submissive? High, medium or low energy? Easy or more challenging to train? Smart for a dog or smarter than a fifth grader?

Each breed has a list of pros and cons associated with it. Whether you list a breed characteristic as a pro or a con may differ depending on what you are looking for in a companion. Do you love a dog that's feisty and on the go all the time or are you happier with a dog that will be content to hang out on the couch with you?

There are many websites available with descriptions of dog breeds on them. A good place to start is www.canismajor.com. Two of the best sources of information about the pros and cons of particular breeds are 1. Your Veterinarian and 2. Individuals involved in purebred rescue. These folks are ready and willing to help you choose the breed that will fit best with your family. Breeders can sometimes be a source of information, but only if they are willing to share the drawbacks of owning a member of their chosen breed. You can also look for the parent group for your breed. For example The Chinese Shar Pei Club of America.

Knowing the breed or mix your pup will grow into is also important as you will have a better idea of what type of coat care to expect and roughly what size your pet may become.

With mixed breeds, veterinarians used to have to guess about a particular pet's lineage. Now, we have a DNA test available called Wisdom Panel MX that allows us to detect major breeds in your pet's family tree with 85% accuracy. This can help your veterinarian formulate a plan for obedience training and socialization or medical care that can vary depending on the breeds involved. The cost for this test differs from vet to vet, but usually runs around $160.00. See your veterinarian if you are interested in finding out what's in your mix!

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